Lace Making

This report is researched and written by Rosemary Mortham.

Introduction

In the 19th century lace making was an important source of income for ladies living in the local villages. The1851 census shows that of a female population in Lacey Green of 104 over 7 year olds, 80 were engaged in making lace. By the 1881 census that number had increased to 136, and 39 in Loosley Row. Lace making probably came to our part of England with protestant refugees fleeing religious persecution in the north of France, Belgium and Holland

For modern day workers like myself, lace making is a fascination craft. We enjoy the challenge of conquering another form of handwork. However, for the Victorian workers it was far from enjoyable. It filled every spare moment of their waking life but after the invention of lace making machines, no matter how hard they worked, they could no longer make a living. The first lace making machine was invented in the 1770s, and mechanisation had become well established in Nottingham by 1830. It is the history of lace making after this date and especially towards the end of the 19th Century, which has particularly interested me.

It is almost certain that lace was made in our villages in the 18th Century and perhaps even in the the 17th Century but I have not found any records of this. In the early days it would have been a much better paid occupation. Then all lace was handmade. To encourage the local workers imported lace was highly taxed, which led to a flourishing trade to smuggling.

Earnings

As always the poor were at the bottom of the heap. They were dependant on others to provide them with the orders and supplies, and these people also took a cut of the profit. Suppliers might work through local shops or be itinerant peddlers, coming back after a set time to collect the work. When bobbin lace making was seriously in decline a local wealthy lady might arrange orders for the villagers.

Suppliers would provide suitable threads and patterns known as "prickings". Workers would probably learn to make a few patterns, so that they could work faster.. In 1830, High Wycombe and Princes Risborough had lace dealers who sold thread and bought finished lace. They also carried a range of gods, to exchange for lace.

to see The History of pillow lace making, part 2, click "1900 Mrs Forrest helps Lace Sales"